Here is a closeup picture of the straight foam block panel. You can see that they are fully hollow
in the center except for the sheet metal webs that hold the side together. Those same webs fold
over at the outside face of the panel to provide a solid strip to attach things (drywall, brick ties,
etc) later, just as you would with any wooden furring strip. You just have to use sheet metal
screws in this case.
Notice the massive cavities that will get filled with rebar and grout (concrete with pea gravel that
we plan to laboriously mix and pour ourselves) after the panels are secured in place. The result
is a waffle-like pattern of concrete inside the foam, making a very solid and soundproof wall.
The walls above the slab will have 11 inch wide panels with a six inch hollow core which provides
plenty of insulation, but the portion of the walls that are below slab (retaining walls and stem
walls) ) will use 11 inch wide panels with an 8 inch hollow core (shown in this picture) for extra
strength. Note that there are horizontal cavities (beams) in addition to the vertical ones (posts),
with a thinner web in between.
Each panel is 11 inches wide, 16 inches tall, and 48 inches long. They have a tongue-and-groove
arrangement that helps align them, and polyurethane foam adhesive is used to glue them
together. Rebar is installed both horizontally and vertically, preferably before the concrete goes